Black Pepper Pain De Mie

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment, combine both flours, the sugar, and yeast. Mix in the salt and pepper. With the mixer on low, gradually add the milk and water and knead until a dough forms, about 1 minute. Add the butter 1 tablespoon at a time, waiting until it’s almost completely blended before adding the next, and continue mixing until all the butter is incorporated and the dough is elastic and sticky, about 3 minutes.

Turn the dough out into an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm (72°F to 77°F/22°C to 25°C), draft-free place until almost doubled in size, 2 to 2½ hours.

Oil an 11-by-4-inch (28-by-10-cm) Pullman loaf pan or a 9-by-5-inch (23-by-13-cm) loaf pan. Lightly flour a work surface.

Turn the dough out onto the work surface and knead it gently to press out any large bubbles; be careful not to deflate the dough too much. Gently stretch two opposite sides of the dough and fold them over into the center. Stretch and fold the top and bottom of the dough over to form a ball. Gently shape the dough into a log about the length of the pan.

Transfer the dough to the pan seam side down, tucking the ends underneath if necessary to create a smooth, even top. Oil enough plastic wrap to cover the dough and cover the pan with it, oil side down. Let rest in a warm, draft-free place until the dough has risen to just about ½ inch (1.25 cm) from the top of the pan, 30 minutes to 1½ hours, depending on the temperature where it is rising (begin checking early).

Meanwhile, about 25 minutes before baking, position a rack in the lower third and preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

Remove the plastic wrap from the dough and, if using a Pullman pan, oil the lid and slide it on. Or, wrap the loaf pan tightly in a double layer of aluminum foil, oiling the part of the foil that will be in contact with the dough. (Be sure the ends of the pan are well wrapped too, or some dough might escape during baking.) Bake for 35 minutes.

Carefully remove the lid or foil, return the bread to the oven, and bake until the top is light brown, 10 to 15 minutes more; the center of the loaf should register between 190°F (88°C) and 210°F (99°C) on an instant-read thermometer.

Let the loaf cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Remove from the pan, transfer to a wire rack, and let cool completely before slicing. Stored in a plastic bag or wrapped in linen at room temperature, the pain de mie will keep for 2 to 3 days.